Mohave Preserve Exploration

Singing Dune in the Mohave Preserve

I had been told about the Mohave Preserve by my friend Erica as she likes to visit it with her family. I decided that following a recent trip out to my desert property that I would explore this remote section of the Mohave for myself and show my boys all the fun things I had heard about within it.

I am trying a new format this time so please click on the link below for the photo journal adventure through the preserve.

Mohave Photo Journal

Cloudripper, 13,525 ft.

Cloudripper, 13,525 ft. living up to its name.

With my summer drawing to a close after so many great adventures it is hard to believe that one more opportunity was just around the corner for me. Having started the summer with a Memorial Day birthday trip to Mammoth for skiing and mountain biking, followed  a month later by a trip to climb Halfdome in Yosemite, then another month later to spend a fabulous week on the John Muir Trail with many of my friends. Throw in a couple overnight backpack trips I led for the Boy Scouts  to the Bridge to Nowhere and then cap it with a full week Sierra Trek I led for the Scouts and I must admit, I had already had one heck of a summer!

While cruising through REI to stock up for one of the fore mentioned trips, I bumped into my friend Edd who asked me if I wanted to go on a Sierra Club hike he was leading to summit Cloudripper. Fortunately my wife Denise was standing beside me, he told me the date and she said, "sure, go for it." Well getting permission had never been so easy so I jumped on the opportunity immediately! One grand finally to climb a substantial peak before the summer season drew to an end. My Boy Scout Trek had me in the vicinity of Cloudripper just a few weeks prior. I  told the boys the reason I would not be at the next Court of Honor was because I would be climbing that, as I pointed to the peak towering above us at 13,525 feet with what looked like a near vertical face on the western side.

Just a week and a half after returning from my week long Boy Scout trek to Long Lake and vicinity I was yet again on my way up highway 395, my fifth of the season! This was to be a 3 day hike, quite leisurely at 6 miles per day and no more than 3,000 ft. of elevation gain per day with a base camp among the Big Pine Lakes, an area I had never been to before. We all met up at the trail head  and finished packing and were ready to head out. We were a group of eleven, I knew the Sierra Club leaders on the trip, and a few of the others. One included Bill Burke, the oldest American to have summited Mt. Everest as well as one of the very few to have summited the highest peak on every continent. It is not every day you get to travel with someone with that kind of resume and I was looking forward to talking with him on the trip as I had met him at a seminar he did on Everest a couple years prior.

Edd and Erica pose by Big Pine Creek.

The hike included a great opportunity to follow along Big Pine Creek as we made our way up to the Big Pine Lakes for an easterly approach on Cloudripper. We followed Sierra Club hiking rules, not unlike the Boy Scout protocols I must follow, taking regular breaks, not separating and stopping at all trail intersections. It is slow travel but all for good reason. We stopped for lunch after having gained over 1,500 ft. and doing half our distance and put our feet in the creek and enjoyed some shade on this rather warm day. I had an opportunity to talk to Bill about Everest and ask some different questions than your typical stuff which led into a very interesting discussion on many Everest topics. What a great way to spend lunchtime!

Want to swim?

Shortly after heading out from lunch we got to see some of the lakes. Several of these lakes are glacier fed from several of the glaciers here in the Palisades region of the Sierra Nevada. The water in these glacial fed lakes is unlike any you have ever seen before. When the sun is shining on the water it takes on an almost iridescent green color. Interesting as on the JMT trip we came across a different glacial fed lake, Lake Catherine, that was so medium blue in color it looked fake. I guess it depends on the amount of silt and the contents of such silt as to how the water would be colored. I knew I would have to swim in one of these before the trip was over, cannot pass up on opportunities like that!

Fresh pizza from the oven! Backpacking food at its best.

As we headed back toward lake 4, the views of the Palisade Glacier appeared and the towering ridge above it, home to several fourteeners, came into view. We hunted for a good spot to make camp to comfortably hold all eleven of us and finally found the perfect spot. As we all settled in for the evening we also got out our cooking stuff as tonight was happy hour at 6PM followed by our dinners. We all gathered in our common kitchen area and let the sharing begin. A plethora of cheeses came out, crackers, meats, nuts, chocolate and ..... whiskey. I contributed some melba crackers with some of my chipotle brined smoked chicken which is always a big hit. Following happy hour I set up for the coup de gras, a fresh baked smoked bbq chicken pizza! I had fabricated a little oven by using a pot and lid upside down, a small spacer in the bottom and a piece of sheet aluminum for a cookie sheet. I had tested this at home successfully and wanted to try it on the trail. I had made my own wheat pizza dough at home and wood fired it on my Weber bbq so I had a great crust. I topped it with a little olive oil, garlic powder and salt, spread some bbq sauce from Lucilles on it, topped with fresh mozzarella, my smoked chicken and green bell peppers. In the oven it went over my near 30 year old MSR XGK stove and about 20 minutes later out came a gorgeous trail pizza! I had some and shared the rest and proceeded to make another and do the same. For dessert I took a lesson from my pal Clark and made fresh popcorn and once again shared that. Dinner on the trail had never been so good!

Erica lectures Bill Burke, who has summited Everest,
on the dangers of the final ridge traverse.

On the summit, overlooking where I was with the Scouts
two weeks prior.

Fourteeners abound, Split on the left, Sill in center,
and Starlight, Polemonium, North Palisade and Thunderbolt.

The following morning it was an early start, on the trail by 7AM to head out for Cloudripper. Fairly early on, the trail vanished and it was class 2 from here on out. We first had to climb a fairly steep talus field to gain the ridge that would lead us to the summit. This was a little difficult as not only was it steep but the upper section had many loose rocks and we did not want to dislodge them and send them down toward the rest in our group. We made the ridge and then had to do a little route finding to make our way along the ridge towards the summit. We finally neared the summit block and scouted out the best way to get there. The final 100 feet or so along the ridge involved some easy class 3 climbing provided we were on the correct route. It was at this point that Erica, always looking for a good joke, lectured Bill Burke on the dangers of this final ridge to the summit. We all got a great laugh and Bill, who has been to Mt. Everest the last 6 years and summited back in 2009, just sat there and listened to every word with a smile on his face. We all made our way over and touched the summit right at noon. Cloudripper at 13,525 had been summited! What was better was that nobody seemed to be suffering any altitude issues at all which can be common over about 10,000 ft. We all took pictures of the surroundings and each other. I could look down upon where I had been just two weeks prior with the Scouts, see Chocolate Peak that I led a couple of them up and all the lakes we had explored that week. I could look to the south and see Thunderbolt Peak which eluded my friend Jason and I a year ago just 100 ft. from the summit as well as Split Mountain further south that we tried to summit and ski off the top of but only made it to 12,000 ft. before weather turned us around. Other fourteeners in view included Sill, North Palisade, Starlight and Polemonium. What a great view! We rolled off the peak and over to a nearby flatter spot on the ridge for some lunch. Before long rain was visible nearby and it was time to head down. We got back into camp at about 5PM with light rain falling occasionally. Too late for a swim again, it was time to pump water, clean up, and make dinner.

Dinner that night was not near as exciting but I did make my trail tacos which are always a hit. A lot of food sharing took place and I once again made popcorn to share. Rain just started to fall as we finished up so it was off to the tents for an early night. After a long day off trail and big summit we were all tired and welcomed the early night.

The lake for the final swim. COLD!!!

The hike out the following morning was nice and included a little exploration of the meadows and lakes in the area. I finally got in that swim I was hoping for but it was so cold it did not last very long. It did not help that the sun kept ducking behind the clouds and then rain began to fall as I wanted to warm up in the sun and eat lunch! Back down the trail we went, in and out of the edge of the rainfall and sun. Another stop was made to soak our feet in the creek in the shade as it was getting hot and of course after a little while the rain caught us again! Down we headed all the way back to the cars for the drive home.

Big Pine Creek on the way out as rain
began to fall.

This was a fantastic trip, an area I would like to explore much more in the future. It might even be the location for a future Boy Scout Sierra Trek. The summit was spectacular and hiking with both new and old friends was great. The trail cooking I did was really fun and something practical on a short hike like this. With no future hikes to the Sierras planned I am afraid my summer backpacking season has come to a close. With predictions of an El Nino year in the long range forecast I am hoping to get back up there, or even locally, with the backcountry skis for several adventures this winter. Every cloud has a silver lining as they say, I just hope this winters include a heck of a lot of moisture to go with that silver!

The full set of pictures are available to view by clicking here.

Eastern Sierra Adventure on the JMT

Banner Peak over Thousand Island Lake.

I must admit that this summer has been one of the best ever for outdoor adventures as you can see from many of the great stories I have already posted. Continuing in the seemingly never ending quest for adventure was a backpack trip put together by a good friend Erica whom I hike with bi-weekly at Turtle Rock. She inquired if any of us regulars at Turtle Rock would be interested in a week long backpacking trip along the John Muir Trail (JMT) in the Sierras in the summer. Nearly all of us had expressed early interest in such a trip so the plan was put in motion to make it a reality back in the early Spring.

Erica was able to grab a permit for us to depart from Silver Lake along the June Lake Loop following the Rush Creek trail. Our plan was to head up from there to Thousand Island Lake and spend several days exploring before heading on north via the JMT over Donohue Pass and dropping into Lyell Canyon and finishing our hike at Tuolomne Meadows where we would catch a bus back to where we started. We had lots of time to complete the hike which was only about 28 miles without our exploration days and for a bunch of folks who normally head out to climb big peaks and pound out excruciatingly long distances this sounded quite pleasant. The trip would consist of Erica as our group leader, Alex, Jason and his wife Alisa, CP and I. I had backpacked with all of them before except Erica whereas she had never backpacked with any of us. I knew we would have a great time together. All of us were very experienced backpackers, all with different styles but certainly all very fit, easy going personalities and ready for whatever we would face.

Group photo, less me, at the start of our trip.

When working out the logistics I suggested a 3AM departure from home on the day of the hike. While some question the very early start I always like to sleep in my bed the night before a trip and travel the desert in the darkness and watch the sunrise as I approach the southern end of the Sierras. Everyone agreed and we met up in Mammoth a little after 8AM for breakfast after picking up our permit in the ranger station. We were all excited to begin a great adventure together. Half of us had recently completed a trip up Halfdome in Yosemite and the thought of being together again on the trail for another epic adventure was overwhelming. It shouldn't be legal to have this much fun, but I won't tell if you don't!

Arriving at our trailhead near Silver Lake we sorted out our group gear. We would only bring two stoves, my MSR Reactor for our hot water needs and Jason's traditional canister stove with fancy homemade windscreen and fry pan for cooking. Two water filters and enough canister fuel rounded out the collection. We rolled out of the Rush Creek trailhead just before 11AM. It is a fairly good elevation gain on the first day, about 3,000 ft., with full packs on a very sun exposed trail before dropping into the basin containing Thousand Island Lake at 10,000 ft. Along the way we passed several reservoirs that feed the hydro power generation along the way. While the water is nice they still look a little too man made so we all appreciated it once we got back into the wilderness far enough to leave man made stuff behind and get a taste of the real backcountry where the only stuff we saw was from nature except for a few trails to aid us in getting there. Lunch was taken along the Clark Lakes and most of us opted for a swim to cool off from the climb that was now behind us.

The group, less CP, as we arrive at Thousand Island Lake.

We rolled into Thousand Island Lake that afternoon and it was everything the pictures I had looked at made it out to be and more. Banner Peak rises majestically at the end of the lake making it a very picturesque place, probably why EVERY photo you look at on the Internet of Thousand Island Lake includes a shot of Banner in the background. The lake itself is rather large and had many islands, nowhere near one thousand but lots is good enough. I have heard about the beauty of this lake and have wanted to day hike it while in Mammoth in the past but it is a 20 mile round trip day hike from Agnew Meadows which does not leave much time to enjoy the location. We arrived at the lake about 3:30PM and headed far off the JMT to try and find a more secluded camp location at this very popular destination. Near the JMT people were camped  literally right on top of each other! We all agreed that we did not come to the backcountry to camp next to others like a campground so we explored the distant northwest shore of the lake where we found a good location with a lovely rock to make our common kitchen area on that sported a great view, comfortable rock ledges for natural seating and backrests, and as Alisa pointed out, plenty of large black ants to provide a cleaning service for any crumbs we happen to drop to keep us bear safe!

After setting up camp, Jason and Alex headed off to try their hand at fishing, something they had both been very excited about. While I do enjoy fishing and have spent lots of time doing it in Alaska, I really wanted to spend my time exploring and swimming on this trip and left the fishing gear at home. I guess for me it is something I enjoy much more with my boys so exploring and swimming with friends sounded more appealing to me. The remainder of us went for a swim in what was left of the afternoon sun as it would be dropping behind Mt. Davis to the west of us in the late afternoon. The water was rather chilly as is expected in the Sierras but sure felt good on the feet and offered a chance to get semi clean after a hot and dusty hike in.

Our camp kitchen on our first night.

Full moon over Banner Peak.

Our fishermen returned empty handed. The lake was too shallow at our end for good fishing which likely explains why we did not see anyone else trying to fish near us. It was now dinner time and to make our evenings a little more fun we had agreed that each of us would bring a dinner to share with everyone. This not only gave the element of surprise as it related to what was for dinner but also gave us all a break as we only had to prepare our meal on our night and got to just observe and relax in camp on all the other nights. Jason went first as he tends to bring lots of fresh ingredients that may not keep too long. He worked up quite a feast with some tortillas he cooked up made with some powdered masa and filled them with some peppers and sausage he had grilled up along with some cotija  cheese. It was a very nice first meal together and Erica who was really only used to seeing traditional freeze dried meals on the trail was most impressed. CP who typically brings wine on backpack trips figured the alcohol to weight ratio was no good on wine and this time elected for some scotch! I had a small plastic measuring cup, AKA shot glass, that was filled and passed around to liven up the evening a little. We enjoyed a great meal together and headed off to bed shortly after nightfall as the full moon rose just thereafter casting it's reflection along the lake before us. What a great view to go to bed with.

CP and Erica with Garnet Lake below.

Day two was to be an "easy" exploration day. We all decided that a great day trip would be to travel cross country (no trail, just a map and compass to guide us) over a nearby ridge to the south and drop into Garnet Lake. The hike over was spectacular, both the scenery and terrain occupied our minds during our travels. It did not take too long before we were over the ridge and descended into a very lush valley holding Garnet Lake and the creeks that feed it. The views there were incredible as well as it was much greener on this side of the ridge. The other surprising thing was that there was nearly nobody at this lake as they were all packed around Thousand Island Lake right off the JMT! We got down to waters edge and half of us went swimming while the other half fished. The first fish was snagged by Jason as soon as he put his pole in the water and before we could even get our shoes off to swim! This was a good sign for the day for sure. A couple more fish later and Jason held class on holding fish. Erica who used to catch and dissect eels for Environment Canada was a little uneasy with these local trout. She gave it a try but quickly decided the job was not for her. Jason's wife Alisa was ok with holding them however and posed with a fish she caught for a picture.

The girls show off one of the prized first fish.

It was lunchtime shortly thereafter and Erica and I swam out to an island to have our lunch. We thought others would be joining us but it turned out they were having too much fun fishing. I decided to take my small daypack with me, holding it up out of the water with one hand. I figured I swim regularly and should be able to manage about 100 yards this way. Well, I was wrong! About 75 yards out I found it very difficult to hold the pack out of the water and found myself struggling. Erica, a former lifeguard and regular swimmer, offered to take the pack. I told her I had it but she insisted. I handed it to her, who weighs about half what I do, and she began to sink almost instantly and handed right back! At this point I figured better to let the pack get a little wet, whatever was inside can dry, and I swam the remainder and got on the island. Ugg! That was not fun, perhaps it would have been easier had we not been at 10,000ft.? Our friends on shore cooked up some trout while we dined on the island. I was not looking forward to the swim back and the wind had picked up as well, blowing against the direction of our return. We waited for the wind to die down AND we drank lots of the fluids I had in the pack to lighten it. Ultimately we figured a way to attach it to my head so I could swim back with both arms and this proved to be no problem.

Alex takes in the view before dropping into Ruby Lake.

Once back on shore Jason offered up some fresh trout. Erica shared with us that she had never eaten something she had seen killed before. Needless to say, this was the freshest fish she had ever had and we all enjoyed it. After our feast it was time to swim again, back to the island, sans pack, with Jason, Alisa and I for a little sun before returning to move onward. We had chosen to head back by cutting over a different spot on the ridge and cruising by Ruby Lake. Along the way we noticed a little swimming hole that felt fairly warm, at least compared to the others swiming spots, so we all jumped into that one. We had to have been the best smelling backpackers in the entire area with all this bathing going on! We finally got out and headed over the ridge to Ruby Lake and hung out there for a short time before heading back to camp. Jason and Alex once again headed out to catch fish while the rest of us relaxed in camp.

Erica enjoys her first day of eating fresh fish.

That night was my turn to cook. I made my favorite, trail tacos, and they were well liked with fresh cheese and avocado and this time even a little dehydrated sour cream. We once again had some trout that Jason returned with before dinner. Erica proclaimed her love of fresh trout and was first in line to have a little. Jason cooked it up with some fresh peppers and sage from his garden making it all the better. That night Erica broke out a card game she had brought called Quiddler. It is kind of a card game version of Scrabble. We found it very fun and played a few rounds before bed. Erica was quite good at it and made sure we all knew it, she did not realize that she had just signed her Quiddler death warrant!

Jason and I at North Glacier Pass.

The next morning we were up a little earlier as our destination was Mt. Davis, another day excursion from camp. This peak was just over 12,000 ft. and we needed to go cross country over North Glacier Pass to get up to it. The off trail travel was fun and route finding fairly easy. We made it to the pass and found out how absolutely beautiful Lake Catherine is at this high pass. The deep blue water was something not often found in the Sierra's and likely the result of the glacial waters that drain into it from the Banner/Ritter saddle. We admired it and moved on. Now the travel got a little more difficult with some rock scrambling and route finding required. We made it up to about 11,500 ft. and viewed what might be Mt. Davis, or not. The path ahead was loads of talus and the climb up appeared a little too much for a fun excursion for all but Jason and I. The rest opted to head back to Lake Catherine while Jason and I pushed on.

Jason and I atop Mt. Davis with Banner and Ritter behind us.

Alisa goes all in back at glacial fed Lake Catherine. Brrrrr

The rest of the trip to the summit of Davis was not as bad as it first appeared. Several hundred more yards of difficult talus before we got onto some snow for easier travel and then to smaller rock that was not too bad. I had estimated that when the others turned back we were only and hour from the peak, I was close, 50 minutes later we were signing the summit register! Jason and I had lunch and enjoyed the incredible views offered from this vantage point. Banner and Ritter were very prominent to the south, Thousand Island Lake to the east, to the north was Donohue Pass which we would be crossing the next day but it was hard to make out. We headed back down, making very good time as Jason and I are very quick in this type of terrain together. We crossed over the pass and came across CP and Erica at the bottom of a short glissade. Jason and I yelled a hello down to them and then got on our butts and slid down in the glissade path they had created and rejoined the group for the final descent back to camp. We heard of their swimming stories in the frigid lake and we shared our tales of getting to the summit. Back in camp it was dinner time, preceded by a swim, some relaxation and of course a game or two of Quiddler. CP proved victorious this time. It was Alex's turn for dinner and he did a fresh pasta carbonara with parmesan and salami that was very delicious.

A little more fresh trout for the evening with lemon.

Our forth day we decided to pack up and move over Donohue Pass and drop into Lyell Canyon. It was another long day on the trail. We started by travelling cross country over a nearby ridge to rejoin the JMT, shaving at least a mile off of the days travels. It was to be about a 8 to 10 mile day to get to where we thought we would like to camp where the river would run slow and wide giving Alex the perfect conditions for his fly rod that as of yet had not landed any fish. Along the way we came across a father with his 7 year old son hiking from Devils Postpile all the way to Yosemite Valley. They were fun to talk to and we gave the youngster a lot of praise for his efforts and hiked on by. Lunch was yet again along a river and offered a chance for a little foot soaking before pushing on. We only had to climb 1,000 ft. to get over the pass but for some reason it felt just as tough as the first day to me. Not sure why but I cannot help how I feel.

The Glenn Lightning Rod. Do not try this at home kids!

Erica, our group leader atop Donohue Pass with map in hand.

The weather was building up and looking like rain was nearby as we approached the pass. Not a good spot to encounter weather when you are at the high point of your travels and very exposed. Sure enough, we started to get a little light rain as we were climbing the final portion of the pass. Out came rain jackets and even though they are fancy Gortex breathable material it was still questionable if they kept more water out or trapped more in. Earlier in the day the group guessed what time we would cross the pass, Alisa was dead on in her timing, 2PM I think. We waited up top for everyone. Since I had been offered by our group leader to serve as the lightning rod for the group due to my height, I grabbed a few trekking poles and arrayed them over my head for a great picture of me doing my group duty. It was good for a few laughs for sure! While we waited on CP to arrive at the pass, Erica and I headed up to the top of nearby hill to get a better view. From the top we could see the peaks we were leaving behind as well as the meadows we were heading towards for that nights camp. We could also clearly see Mt. Lyell and the Lyell Glacier signifying we had crossed over Donohue Pass and were now on the descent to the lush valley below. From this high vantage point we could identify some of the peaks in the area, and the weather closing in upon us! We also came across the infamous Sierra mini bear, AKA the marmot.

The group below the Lyell Glacier.

We quickly descended the pass and took a break at an unnamed lake below the Lyell Glacier. It was quite interesting to look up at this glacier as it holds a little history to me. Once upon a time my dad and his college roommate were going to climb Mt. Lyell and glissade down this very glacier, probably after reading one of John Muir's tales or perhaps a story out of Roughing It by Mark Twain. Well dad got as far as buying the ice axe, which he still has in his closet to this day, but the closest he is ever going to get to that glacier is the picture I took at its base!

Fortunately the skies were clearing a little as we made our way down. We came across a spot that is popular with the JMT hikers to camp and once again they were crammed on top of each other like sardines in a can. We headed on down a little further to where the meadows began and found just what we were looking for about 500 yards off the main trail. We discovered the most incredible camp, used by the folks with the pack animals as best we could figure, ready for us to use. It had a great fire pit, stack of precut wood, plenty of spots to put tents and lots of local firewood and kindling as well as access to water nearby. All this with an absolutely incredible view of the meadows below us. We quickly set up camp and now that we were in an area we could have a fire, we proceeded to use this right and got one going right away! I harvested some wood from a downed tree nearby as I did not want to use that which had already been left there. We were in a Yosemite paradise. We could see folks on the JMT as they passed at a distance and we were fortunate to have stumbled across this location. While we did not swim this afternoon, most if not all of us did wash up down at the river before putting on our evening clothes.

Alex hanging out by our campfire in this perfect location.

Dinner was great as once again I did not have to cook! CP had brought some freeze dried lasagna as well as some beef stroganof. For dessert he also had a blueberry cheesecake as I recall, whatever it was it was good! We all enjoyed hanging by the campfire, quite a novelty when backpacking for many of us due to fire restrictions. As the evening progressed we noticed clouds building and heard a few distant claps of thunder. Before long and shortly after dark the lightning grew much closer and a full on rain storm came with it! Now this is exactly what I had been waiting for, something I was so accustomed to encountering when camping in Tuolomne Meadows as a kid. Off to our tents we went to ride out the storm. It rained fairly heavy for about an hour or so and the lightning continued for about that long as well. It was so enjoyable to be hunkered down in the tent, warm and dry, with the storm brewing outside. I slept very well that night.

Alex drops his fly in the water and is treated with an instant bite!

Hard to beat this location, Jason drops in a fly to test the waters.

Yet another morning was upon us. By this time in the trip I had really forgotten what day it was, how many days in we were and since I was not wearing a watch by choice to help me really unwind, (no pun intended) I had completely lost all relation of days entirely. It was such a great feeling!!! So in that spirit, on day whatever it was, we all got up late and had absolutely no plans whatsoever. Over breakfast we discussed what we might like to do. We knew Jason and Alex wanted to go fishing and this was a great location for them to fly fish. I wanted to explore but didn't much care where and CP and Erica liked that plan and Alisa wanted to enjoy camp and the fire. With those plans we all headed out with a plan to return to camp for a group lunch in the early afternoon. Jason and Alex were scouting the river for fishing holes while CP, Erica and I looked for good swimming holes. Our paths crossed right when the guys put their lines in the water. Both had bites almost immediately! This was especially good news for Alex as it was the first bite on his new fly rod that was ideally suited for this type of slow river fishing. CP, Erica and I continued downstream scouting out swimming holes and hiked on down river enjoying the views before rejoining the JMT to hike back to camp.

The final Quiddler match following the NeoAirlympics

We all returned to camp and had lunch. Alisa had a group lunch for us that day and we had egg noodles with some fresh basil and who knows what else, it was just good so I really did not care. The guys had caught lots of fish but they were too small and were all throw backs. Not that big a deal as they had a great time catching. We had scouted a great swimming hole and wouldn't you know that the perfect camp spot we had picked out also had a perfect swimming hole just a few hundred yards away! Now to add to the afternoon swimming fun, Erica and I grabbed our Thermarest NeoAir mattresses and brought them with us. We had envisioned the NeoAirlympics as we were missing the official Summer Olympics in London while we were on the trail. We all got down to the water and tried out the air mattresses and found them to be really good as a water toy. We all participated in a few runs going head to head against each other before getting out and drying off and laying in the adjacent meadow to sun ourselves. Lucky for us, Erica brought the Quiddler cards again so a round of that ensued. We had a great time just laying there, playing the game, getting some sun and some much needed relaxation. Just as the sun was dropping over the nearby ridge we wrapped up the game, CP pulled off the victory again much to Erica's dismay. We needed to get back to camp for some warmer clothes. We got our fire going and settled in for our final meal. Erica had the final night, sweet and sour pork. It was really good and we found that the six of us could quite easily eat 10 servings with no problem. She had one of my favorite desserts, raspberry crumble, and we devoured that as well. Now this being the last night Jason put out the call for whatever extra food we all had. Some granola, oatmeal, chocolate chips, sugar and few other items came out. With a little olive oil he whipped up something with all of this stuff, kind of like a really grainy pancake like thing. At this point it did not matter, it was GOOD! Shortly after that we headed off to bed for our final night on the trail.

Group photo as we head down the JMT toward Tuolomne.

The final swimming hole near the bridge.

Our last morning was upon us and I think we all felt a little sad to be packing up for the final time. We dried our tent bottoms and packed up our gear once the meadow dried as the sun came out. We still had about 8 miles to go to reach our final destination, Tuolumne Meadows, where a fully stocked store awaited us as well as a bus back to our starting point. We got on the trail and happened to come across the father and son team we had met a few days earlier. The 7 year old was still doing great although his dad seemed to tag along on my heels for awhile for what I am certain was a chance to enjoy a little adult conversation. Having backpacked with my kids, I certainly understand this need. Come lunchtime we had found yet another great swimming hole so in we went, riding the current and enjoying a dip on a fairly warm day. It was now time to head out. Fortunately we were running a little ahead of schedule and we were able to stop one last time at a great bridge along the river where a trail from the Tuolomne Lodge crosses over the river to join the JMT. I have been there many times before and in fact just one year prior Erica and I missed each other there by one day while travelling with our families and we both agreed it would be a great place to swim. In we all went one more time. Now after a week on the trail we had to win an award as the nicest smelling backpackers ever!

Lembert Dome, the first and last "Peak" I did with my dad.

Just a mile to go from the bridge and we soon encountered a view of Lembert Dome, the first and last peak, if you can even call it a peak, I did with my dad. Thereafter we arrived at the Tuolomne store. This place has special meaning to me because as a kid I came here with my family every year. I would see, and smell, the backpackers cruising through and think how great that would be to do someday. My dad had talked about backpacking the High Sierra camps with me when I was younger but by the time I was old enough and in shape to do it, he was not. I have backpacked to many locations but finally I was the backpacker rolling into the Tuolomne Store, dropping my pack out front and raiding the store for everything sweet and salty I could grab. It may have taken me 35 years to make that dream a reality but it was finally MY reality. The finish did bring a tear to my eye as it was something I had been thinking about for many years. To have done this with GREAT friends, all of whom I have met through the Orange County Hiking and Backpacking Club made this trip something I will always remember. I head off with the Boy Scouts in a week to lead them on a Sierra Trek of their own. I hope it inspires them as much as I was as a young boy spending time up in the mountains. I want to follow through on the thought my dad had when I was younger with my boys, perhaps we will follow in the footsteps of the father/son team we met on this trip and hike from Devils Postpile to Yosemite Valley. Who knows, maybe I can get my boys to make the side trip over to the Lyell Glacier and complete an adventure hatched by their grandfather and his college roommate so many years ago. It would be even better if we can complete it and share the story and the pictures with him while he can still enjoy them. For symbolic reasons, I would likely take that ice axe from his closet to complete the adventure and give it back to him, with all the scratches and wear marks an ice axe should have after such a journey.

For all the pictures from this adventure please click here.

Hoofing it up Halfdome

Halfdome, Yosemite National Park

Back in February while hiking our regular biweekly conditioning hike in Turtle Rock my friend CP mentioned he was considering putting in for permits to hike up Halfdome. I told him instantly I was in! He commented that he did not have permits, was not sure of the dates or if he would even get them if he did apply. I told him it did not matter, I was in! So many people have heard of my list of peaks I have climbed and just assume Halfdome was one of them. Regretfully, it was not and here was a great opportunity to rectify that and do it with great friends.

CP put in for the permits and we waited. I still remember getting his text in April that not only did we get the permits but that we got our preferred day! How lucky we were. Six of us were going to be part of the adventure, I was going to be one of them along with CP, that is the benefit of telling the group leader you are on board before he even has a permit or a date for the adventure. Within short order CP had filled the trip attendees out with myself, Erica and Yong who are regulars on the Turtle Rock hike I lead and friends Clark and Michelle whom hike on the weekends with us regularly.

As I am typically the navigator for our adventures, maps, routes and scheduling was assigned to me. This was also done as both Clark and I have a good friend and client, Gayle from Heritage Foods, who we have hiked with before and has done Halfdome several times and shared her stories and pictures with us. One thing she made clear was that it is best to start early to avoid long lines and crowds at the cables during the final ascent of Halfdome. Our plan was to meet at the trailhead at 5AM and start hiking shortly thereafter to try to make it to the cables by 10AM which we were told would help us avoid the major congestion that is typical at this location. We also decided on a hike to the top of Yosemite Falls the day prior to loosen up our hiking legs and get ready for the big adventure.

Yosemite Falls in the background.

Our master plan was to arrive and meet at the Awahnee Hotel in Yosemite Valley the day prior to the climb. Since many of us were travelling in on different days and from different locations this was a big challenge. Fortunately 5 of us arrived on schedule and headed off to hike Yosemite Falls as planned. Yong was caught in traffic and would start the hike a little later. We made our way to the lovely Yosemite Falls trail and enjoyed great views of Halfdome and the valley below. CP's wife and son joined us up the trail and his son Rahul proved to be a great hiker just like his dad and kept pace with us up front. Once we reached the bottom of upper Yosemite Falls Michelle's foot was bothering her and she decided it was better to turn back and preserve herself for the following day, a good call indeed. CP figured his son had pushed it pretty hard and turned back with him and Clark followed Michelle back down as well. Just Erica and I pushed onward. Shortly after that we got a glimpse of the trail ahead. Good grief, it looked like a wooded version of the 99 switchbacks on Mt. Whitney! Up and up we went and finally crested the top and got to the top of the falls and enjoyed the view. We took a few pictures, soaked our feet in the nice cold water and headed back down. After grabbing an ice cream as a treat for our accomplishment we rejoined Clark and Michelle for dinner before heading off to camp for the night.

We awoke on the morning of the big hike at about 3:30AM. We had to pack up our camping gear as we were outside the park, pick up CP at his hotel where he and his family were staying for the week at 4:30 and then get to the trailhead. We pulled it all off and arrived on schedule at 5:00AM! We were hiking by 5:20AM with just enough light to not need headlamps.

Starting our hike in the early hours.

We had decided to take the Mist Trail, a trail that follows along the river and right past Vernal and Nevada Falls. Both waterfalls are absolutely stunning, Vernal falls at 317 ft. (right Erica?) was amazing. The mist blowing off of it makes the rocks near the trail look black and grass grows everywhere giving you the impression you are in a rain forest rather than California. The view was great and the mist was not that bad and we quickly made our way to the top of it where we soon got a glimpse of Nevada Falls. I have been to Yosemite Valley at least 10 times before but had never seen these falls before so this was a really great experience for me. We kept on hiking up the numerous steps carved into the rock all along this trail. We were all very excited to finally be on this great adventure that had been in the planning for months and as we reached the top of Nevada Falls we were about halfway towards our goal of Halfdome.

Me on a short leash! CP is ready for his first attempt.

We quickly cruised through Little Yosemite Valley. We would have liked to have done the trip as a backpack but all the permits for this area go quickly and we had no luck trying to procure them. I did notice the lovely San Joaquin river flowing through the valley and mentally marked a location where the current was slow and the river ran wide and deep, could be nice on the way back.

The trail began to climb again as it wrapped around the northwest side of Halfdome and began to bring us toward the north shoulder of the peak. At first view, you could see the cables section way up on Halfdome itself but there was the shoulder of the dome directly in front of us that looked quite menacing all by itself. Our group had strung out a little bit, maybe 10 minutes separating us but were all in contact via radio so all was well. Erica, Yong and I reached the top of the shoulder after climbing the steps carved into the rock right at 10AM. How is that for running on schedule, our target time to reach the cables and we nailed it dead on!

It was a bit windy and exposed on the shoulder but this was where we needed to put on our summit gear. Yong had opted to wear a climbing harness with a pair of carabiners on 2 ft. leaders so he could clip to the cables that run along the route to the summit. CP was going to go like most people do and just use the cables to pull himself up. Erica had expressed a little concern prior to going and I offered to have her tethered to me  and we would both wear climbing harnesses. Each of us also had a carabiner on a short leader to clip to the cable if need be. I figured this would give us the greatest speed and flexibility on the ascent and if she slipped I could provide assistance by securing her until she regained her footing to continue. Clark and Michelle were to do the same but when she arrived and had a look at the cables, which ascend a steep 45 to 60 degree slope, she firmly stated that she was happy to have made it this far and that was the end of the line for her. No amount of encouragement was going to budge her so we headed out to climb the final part of this mountain, the infamous cables.

Clark makes quick work in the lead up the mountain.

Clark took the lead with CP, Erica, myself and Yong pulling up the rear. Clark made it look easy and zoomed as fast as was possible with the others on the route. CP, Erica and I were a little slower but at a comfortable pace. About a third of the way up CP looked back and said he was turning back and that he was slipping. He wished us luck and we continued onward. As Erica and I neared the top, Clark was snapping photos of the occasion. I must say that reaching the top of the cables did give the feeling of euphoria I have often experienced on the fourteeners I have summited. Yong arrived shortly thereafter and we all gave each other hugs, laughs and high fives. We made it! Clark inquired about CP and we gave him the news that he had turned back.

My big chance to throw Clark off a mountain!

Once on the summit we found it a little windy but not too bad. We all took turns heading out to the "diving board" for the famous Halfdome summit shot. Clark headed back down rather quickly to rejoin Michelle who was waiting at the bottom of the cables. Yong, Erica and I enjoyed lunch up top and were harassed by the marmots which were more entertaining than a nuisance. While eating lunch both Erica and I came up with the same idea at about the same time. She asked me if I would be willing to go up again with CP tethered to me and I informed her I was just thinking the same thing. I radioed CP down below to let him know we were about to descend and that I was willing to come back up with him tethered to me. His reply was short, "OK" came back on the radio. The three of us headed down. Me first, facing up the mountain, then Erica tethered to me and Young working his carabiners on the cables. We did well heading down, I had to manage my descent speed to not pull on the tether, look behind me to make sure it was clear and advise Erica of any slippery spots or when I needed her to stop. A few times it proved to much and I pulled on the tether which she quickly let me know about. We made it down and were congratulated by Clark and Michelle which was great. We then headed over to CP to the next phase of the journey.

Yong and Erica on the descent.

We approached CP and I told him I was ready to go back up with him. At first he said no, he did not want to hold up the group. We informed him that there was nothing more important to us than seeing that he make the summit. He told us that he had a mild panic attack when he had turned back the first time and that he had even tried a second time but found that his boots and gloves were slipping. Now this is when Erica used her charm and peer pressure tactics to great success, it was truly magical to watch. She instantly pulled off her gloves and gave them to CP and told him that were so sticky that her hands never slipped. CP took them and felt them and agreed they would help. He then commented about his feet slipping. She took off her shoes and had him try to put them on, no luck. She looked to Yong and asked his shoe size and then ordered him to take off his shoes and let CP try them on. They fit and he felt he had more grip. So now with CP wearing magic gloves and shoes she gave up her harness and he put it on and I clipped him to me, we were ready to go! I asked Yong if he wanted to go up again and he looked at me like I was stupid, "I have no shoes!" he said. How quickly I forget.

CP gets his summit picture and I get my second of the day.

Erica saw us down to the cables and saw us off while shoe-less Yong just waived from his perch. Off we went, heading up the cables again. At this point I was really glad I have been doing push-ups and adding to my upper body workouts lately and the rock gym muscles were really coming in handy for gripping the cables. CP looked confident and I could coach him from behind to let him know when we were on the steepest section and how long it would last until the slope decreased and we would reach the top. It wasn't all that long and he was standing on the summit of the mountain he had been the group leader for. I was very proud of him for giving it another try and happy to have been part of getting him to the top although really I was just there to make him feel comfortable, he did it all on his own. We quickly took his summit pictures and he was ready to head down. As we descended I would call out his name and let him know if we needed to be on both cables, the right or the left. Several people heading up heard me say his name and asked him, " are you CP?" When he replied yes they told him congratulations as they had heard his story down below and told him he had a huge cheering section down below! Our other team members shouted out some encouraging comments on the radio that we both carried as well. We finally made it down and he had the biggest smile on his face you have ever seen. Erica was there to greet us and gave him a big hug. We returned to shoe-less Yong who found another lady who was unable to make the top and said, "are you ready to go again Glenn?" Thank God he was joking. I accused him of being a true entrepreneur by selling my sherpa services but the fact was that after two trips up and down my arms and especially my hands were shot and not ready for another trip without a rest. Fortunately they were just messing with me and I was a good sport about it.

Me, Clark, CP and Erica take a swim, COLD.....!

Erica at Nevada Falls.

Yong got his shoes back and we removed our climbing gear and headed out. It wasn't too long and we had caught up to Clark and Michelle and we were all hiking along together again. We came across quite a few people still heading up to the mountain but were glad to be on our way down. It was rather warm as we descended into Little Yosemite Valley and I floated the idea of going for a swim in the river I had spotted earlier. Clark was all for the idea but nobody else chimed in. As we got closer I tried again and asked if anyone wanted to put their feet in the water to cool off, this time I got a few more people interested, Clark and I still with full intentions of jumping in the ice cold river. We stopped and several of us stripped down and were heading in. I was about to go all in and Erica chimes in that she was not going to be beat by me and jumped in with her clothes on! Well before long Erica, Clark, CP and I were all in the water up to our necks enjoying the cooling power of a cold river in the Sierras. We were in for just over 5 minutes before we got out and felt refreshed. Michelle had her feet in and Yong was our official photographer for the occasion.

Erica and Yong at Vernal Falls.

Shortly after getting back on the trail we reached a point where we needed to decide what trail we wanted to take. We could return via the Mist Trail we had taken up, my preference as the pictures of the falls would be far better in the sun that our early pre-sunrise pictures, or via the John Muir Trail, a slightly longer route with less steep steps. We opted to split up, CP, Clark and Michelle would take the JMT as CP wanted to preserve his knee that had been acting up over the last several months on steep descents while Yong, Erica and I took the Mist Trail to take more photos. Both routes proved to be spectacular and we radioed each other when the trails intersected again later and they were only 15 minutes back. We pushed onward to the trailhead and back to our cars and all met up there to complete our journey.

We later discussed our journey and came to one really big conclusion. We worked very well as a team and everybody looked out for each other. Our radio communication kept us all informed and on the same page even if we were not right next to each other. Our group effort to get CP to the top was a stellar example of why you should hike with people you know and trust. When things get tough you need people with a positive can-do attitude and you will not find a better bunch of them than this group of six! It was an honor and privilege to be together on this journey with great friends, something I am sure none of us will EVER forget.

For the full set of pictures click here.

Michelle sums up our feelings upon completing this outstanding adventure together!

Memorial on Mammoth Mountain

Getting air on the final day!

It has been awhile since I made a blog entry. I hoped to have many backcountry ski adventures filling the pages this winter to share. The fact is, this winter was pretty bad, so bad that I thought I was not going to ski at all this year! The good news is that I took up mountain biking as a substitute and now I am hooked on yet another sport I once enjoyed as a kid.

As my 42nd birthday approached, my buddy Jason, who also was bummed we had not gotten a chance to ski and board this year, asked me if I wanted to do something on the Memorial weekend. He and I did Mt. Shasta for my 40th birthday and we have a habit of planning some great adventures together. We asked another friend, Alex, who had a birthday coming up at the same time if he wanted to do something, anything, and he was onboard as well. After throwing a few ideas around we decided we would head to Mammoth and try to ski, mountain bike, shoot, off-road, hike and whatever else we could squeeze into 3 days!

To get the adventure started right, I had them meet me at my house at 2:45AM on Saturday morning for a 3AM departure. Nobody liked getting up early but I knew we could have a full day in Mammoth if we did this. As promised we arrived in Mammoth at 8AM, just in time for some breakfast. It was a cold morning in Mammoth. Clouds clung to the mountain and the lakes basin but the town was sunny. The most interesting part is that snow was falling even though the town was in full sun! We got checked into our cabin that Alex had arranged for us and I let the guys know that I really wanted to go riding as I have never biked with snow falling and I really wanted the experience. It was new to them as well so we quickly got ready in our riding gear and headed out.

Mountain biking in the snow, wearing shorts!

Alex finishes the descent on the Mammoth Rock Trail.

Since I summer in Mammoth every year, I am quite familiar with the area. A quick ride, uphill, from our cabin via Old Mammoth Road would take us to the Mammoth Rock Trail which I had hiked before. The uphill portion was overly difficult as we had just arrived at 8,000 ft. having left sea level about 7 hours prior. We made it to the trailhead and enjoyed the fact that it was snowing, there was some snow on the ground and we were about to head out on a great trail. I was a typical Californian and was riding in the snow wearing shorts! What a great experience. The trail was great, not a riding trail but a hiking trail so it was rough, challenging and raw. Just the way I like it! The views as we descended down along the Sherwins looking across the caldera toward the White Mountains, capped with snow, was incredible. It was difficult because I needed to keep my eyes on the trail in front of me yet I wanted to take in the incredible view all around me at the same time. I found a balance and enjoyed both.

Jason and Alex enjoy our outdoor oasis in the Village, in the snow!

We rode back into town and headed to Starbucks and then hung out in the Village for a little rest. The large patio furniture around the fire pit in the Village became our outdoor living room for the next three days which we retreated to often for a break after an awesome ride on the mountain. There we were, sitting around in the bright sunshine, having our beverages and relaxing all while it was still snowing! This was a great experience and after our long morning it was very relaxing. We talked over our options and decided to head back to the cabin, grab our swim suits, and head off to the hot springs for a nice afternoon dip in the natural springs that run on the other side of hwy 395. It also meant we got to do a little off road driving which is always a favorite of mine.

The trip out to the hot springs was great. Once there we saw we were not the only people with this idea and it looked quite crowded. As I got ready to head over I took out my wallet, and my KEY, and locked them in the truck. As soon as the door closed I got that horrible feeling, why did I just lock my key in the truck?! Well now we had to figure out the next issue. I called AAA from the nearby hilltop where I could get reception and spoke to them. They gave me the number of the local place that could help and asked if I had a pen. I told the lady to go really slow as I needed to use small rocks to write out the number with rocks on the dirt in front of me. She laughed and took her time with me. In the end I could not reach the lock service so we just opted to attempt to break in. The guys were good helpers though, they made quick friends and scored a beer for all of us as ours were locked in the car, more motivation to get in! Between a u-lock, a tent stake, a rock and my very long arm we managed to get in. Now we could finally enjoy the hot springs!

We made quick friends in the hot springs and enjoyed our time there. The muscles sure appreciated the soak and before long we had an invite to a bbq just a few minutes down the road from our cabin. A quick trip to the store and a little cleanup and we were having a bbq with new friends from the hot springs. We finally got to bed at 1:30AM. I am not sure when the last time I had a 23+ hour long day without a rest break, maybe in the Air Force but even they would give us a little rest time so this may have been yet another first!.

Standing on the summit at Mammoth.

I was up fairly early, 5 hours of sleep later to be exact, to make breakfast and get day two underway. This day was to be yet another first for me, ski and bike on Mammoth Mountain on the same day with the same lift ticket! I think we were skiing by 9AM. Jason was feeling the effects of the night prior, sometimes it pays to be the designated driver, lucky for me I guess. We skied the mid mountain for awhile and kept looking at the top. By about 10:30 the top looked like it had softened up enough so we headed up there and skied the black diamond bowls until 1PM when we were ready to ski down , grab some lunch and transition to bike gear!

By 2PM we were back on the mountain in full bike gear and riding the shuttle from the Village up to the main lodge as only the lower portion of the mountain was open for riding. I think we made 4 laps riding from the lodge back to the village via the riding trails. The last run we split up. Jason and I did a black diamond route and Alex did a blue run with a long traverse. Jason and I were flying off of two plus foot drops, landing in rock gardens, flying off of big jumps, navigating very steep, rocky and loose descents and were just plain crazy! Alex found a great traverse and some fantastic sweeping turns as well as some great bridges over a creek and some steep, narrow and shaded single track. We met back in the Village and shared stories from our final run. Alex swore he had the best time on his way down. I asked him if it involved a woman, he looked at me funny and said no. Jason and I told Alex that we found the most awesome route and it had to have been better since the only way he could have more fun would have been some encounter with a fine mountain biking woman. By the end of the day we were beat. It was a much slower paced evening as compared to the the prior. Shower, dinner, movie, bed. We did hold the final day open to either go back and do what we liked best so far or go hiking, shooting, off-roading or all. It was unanimous that we would go back on the mountain for the final day of riding.

Looking at our cabin as we went to bed looked like something out of the norm for a bunch of 40+ year olds.   A few empty growlers of beer, 4 pairs of skis and a snowboard, a couple of rifles, hiking gear, ski boots, bike helmets and three mountain bikes stuffed in the kitchen. Ahhhh, brings back great memories of trips in my younger days with the guys in the Air Force!

Great views on the traverse.

With a GOOD nights sleep under us, we hit the mountain right when they opened at 9AM. This time we took Alex's long traverse ride and he was right, it was great. Awesome views everywhere and some really fun riding. We extended it and even did a little uphill to make a big loop before dropping down to the Eagle Lodge and then riding back to the Village for some lunch. Jason and I then did some additional crazy runs on the black diamond stuff and Alex played on the blue runs. The most memorable portion of the ride for Jason and I was a log. It was about 50 feet long with a ramp on the entry and exit. If you messed up the bailout could be quite painful. I looked at it as I flew past it the day prior and thought it was crazy. I showed it to Jason and he said why not! Well I got him on video doing it and I must say he made it look easy. Now his center of gravity is about a foot and a half lower than mine and he makes even the nastiest stuff look simple but I had to try it. He grabbed my phone to take the video and I headed up to give it a shot. I have the video posted here, it was not a pretty dismount but I did survive it and gained even more confidence in the process. I blew a tire as I came off but it really didn't matter, I made it and gained a lot of confidence in the process.

We were all packed up and rolling out of town at 4PM and got back home at 9:30. We all decided that another trip up there was in order for this summer and we would go when the whole mountain was open so we can ride from the very top all the way back down! My downhill skills definitely improved on this trip with so much practice on tight turns at speed in loose dirt. Good skills to have as they just graded many of my favorite fireroads back here and the conditions are now similar. I have gotten good at controlling a two wheel drift at speed and not winding up in the bushes! Looking forward to my next visit to the mountain.

All pictures from the adventure are available here.